The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the path of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the city's vibrant 1990s creative scene, progressing from mannequin to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.

"It was the zenith of the Britart scene – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that energy."

If Enninful sounds sentimental, he is not the only one. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a significant change. "I feel, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."

A Cultural Backslide

This shift is difficult to overlook: the rise of nationalist groups, the reaction against social awareness, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the Blair era, currently a more divisive political force looms as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an badge of cultural optimism, has sparked debate once more.

For Enninful, the antidote has long been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of prominent faces from politics.

"Those in a position of influence should use it," he asserts, explaining those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain were not a open country, if it hadn't given my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this period will fade."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the youth of today: "They’re much more aware than we were. They analyse implicit prejudice – I was not even aware what that was."

The beginnings of his career would shape a pioneering career characterised by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His time featured diverse covers showcasing models of colour, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Importantly, sales grew.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re not being inclusive – it’s commercially unwise," he explains.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has recently launched his creative company EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since leaving his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was brought up in a place where the majority was Black – the doctors, the lawyers, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was painfully reserved. My teachers declared I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … this duality gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

Defying the popular image of industry figures as loud and highly strung, Enninful is calm and radiates serenity. His life has involved hardship, including well-documented battles with mental health and substance use.

He has also endured serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with limited vision. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, not working, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever passes, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be defined narrowly has inspired him outside the world that established him. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who weren't given a spotlight at the time.

"The establishment often failed to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they did not have the traditional credentials," he observes.

This venture itself operates on a novel strategy, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a greater ecosystem."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Now, Enninful operates as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

What would the younger Edward react to the his current self? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be impressed. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He adds. "I never take anything for granted. We lost our home, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have doubted me my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."