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When compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.